Diving into an abundance of fabric choices in a shop is like stepping into a candy store, except this time, you’re selecting threads instead of sweets. Fabrics are the core ingredient in sewing, and picking the right one depends largely on understanding the various types available it’s the backbone of what you’ll create.
There’s a whole world of fabrics out there, split into two main camps: natural and synthetic. Natural fabrics like cotton, wool, and silk come from plants and animals, and they breathe well and are generally more comfortable and if you’re a beginner sewing natural fiber is easier to work with as natural fabrics have slight give that makes them work into seams much easier than synthetics. I’m not a fan of synthetics but that doesn’t mean that you shouldn’t use them. I do however believe you’re best off sewing with natural fibers as a new sewer as they easier to work with.
The weight of the fabric is equally as important as its type. Imagine sewing a cozy winter coat with a lightweight cotton; chances are, that chill won’t be just a metaphor. Selecting a fabric with the appropriate weight ensures the functionality and flow of the final garment.
You also want to think about the purpose of your sewing project. If you’re stitching up something for a breezy summer day, fabrics like light linen or cotton might do you wonders. Meanwhile, for a winter project, wool or thick corduroy could be the perfect fit.
For those just starting out, stick with forgiving fabrics like cottons, wools, rayons, which by the way fall into the natural fabric category. Rayon as well as viscose are made from wood pulp. These fabric choices hold up well to sewing hiccups and problems along the way. As a beginner I do not recommend sewing on light weight silks like chiffon, charmeuse, crepe-de-Chine and other very lightweight silks, they are very slippery and not easy to work with for beginners. The hardest fabric to sew on, I would say are velvets, as they have a pile or nap which makes the fabric extremely difficult to sew.
Shopping for fabrics
Sadly depending on where you live in the US it’s sometimes difficult to find beautiful fabrics as so many wonderful fabric shops that existed in the 20th century slowly started disappearing. During the 20th century sewing was the most common way to create your wardrobe. As the century moved on and women had become part of the work force, ready to wear became available and shopping became the common method for creating your wardrobe and sewing started to declining. Over the last 30-40 years or so many fabric stores just vanished and we were left with just a few big box type fabric and craft stores and the beautiful fabrics that we loved working with eventually disappeared.
Today unless you’re lucky and live in or around metropolitan areas like NYC or LA where garment centers have wonderful shops, fabric shopping can be difficult unless you live in an area that still has or has new sources for fabric. Therefore fabric shopping online has become the way to acquire quality beautiful fabrics. Especially since Covid, everyone uses online shopping and is now an accepted method for shopping for fabric but proceed with caution. Fabric shopping without touching the cloth is problematic. For many years I told all my students not to buy online because it’s very important to feel and play with the cloth before you buy it. Luckily that worked well because I taught in NYC which has the most wonderful shops imaginable in the garment district and around the city. Therefore just looking at a fabric online is not the way to shop at all unless it’s a fabric you happen to know well. The rules about fabric shopping have definitely changed. Fortunately, the swatch has become much more available. A swatch is a smaller sample of the fabrics that you’d like to consider and is available to purchase before you make a purchase for more yardage. You’ll need to always order swatches, if you are available to go to the store then you can actually roll out some of the cloth and play with it in your hands. Fabric choice is all about your hand and your eyes. The visual followed by touch is best when deciding what to purchase.
You should be thinking about things like the hand, how it feels, and the drape of the cloth is very important. For example if you’re making a flowy dress or skirt you want to look for drape or fluidity in the fabric. If the fabric is stiffer than you’re not going to get that flowing look. And the same is true if you’re making a coat or jacket you might not want a flowy fabric but something more durable or heavier.
Another factor to consider for your fabric choice is ethical sourcing and sustainable options holds equal importance these days. Organic fabrics, for instance, might offer a slightly indulgent price tag but deliver an ethical and environmentally friendly choice, promising quality and conscience together.
Here are a few sources for fabric shops in NYC that offer online shopping and swatches. Most of the wonderful fabric shops in NYC are open to the public but don’t offer online shopping because they cater to the wholesale businesses in the garment district. Even though there are just a few sources included here, I believe you can find most everything you will ever need from the world of fabrics. If you are ever traveling into NYC, take the time to do some shopping at all the many stores in the garment district.
Mood Fabrics, 225 W. 37th Street 3 rd floor, 212-730-5003, website: MoodFabric.com
Mood Fabric is probably the most popular shop in the garment district. This is the store that the popular TV show ‘Project Runway’ uses to purchase their fabrics for the show.
B & J Fabrics-525 7th Ave at W 38th St, 2nd floor, 212-354-8150 Beautiful, beautiful fabrics, a definite must see. website: BandJfabric.com
Greyline Linen- 100% linens-260 West 39 th Street 212 391-4130, website: GreyLineLinen.com
A Few Things to Consider Before You Buy
When you’re hunting for the ideal fabric, practicality often takes a back seat to those initial good looks. But inviting practical considerations into your process can save a ton of headaches later on. For example, don’t sew on velvet. It’s beautiful fabric but is so hard to sew, probably the hardest fabric to sew with.
Shrinkage is something to think about before you buy. So if you wish to buy cotton just remember you should wash it before your start working with it. If you don’t wash it then when you do launder the finished garment it’s possible that it may shrink. Cottons are great fabrics to work with, just consider the need for washing. This applies to other washable natural fabrics like linen.
A vibrant fabric can catch your eye, but will it keep its charm after a wash or two? Fabric that bleeds can ruin more than just your mood, so check labels or perform a small wash test before diving into your project. Better yet wash a swatch and see if it bleeds, you may not want this cloth, or ask the salesperson.
Cleaning is another consideration. Whether a fabric is machine-washable or needs a tad more attention like dry cleaning can significantly impact your decision. Time is precious, and balancing your fabric choice with your lifestyle is key.
Lastly, check your fabric for imperfections before it’s cut, sometimes they’re hiding further along within the yardage.
Matching Fabric to Your Sewing Skills and Project Goals
We’ve all been there—face-to-face with a gorgeous fabric which feels like it’s singing your name. But before you grab it and run, consider whether your sewing skills match up to its demands.
Sewing can be a challenging hobby, so it’s best to start with fabrics that are easy to handle. Cotton is a forgiving choice, perfect for those just getting their feet wet. There are so many beautiful types of cotton you can choose to work with and I will list a few that you might consider using. Cotton pique is a beautiful cotton great for dress, pants and even blouses or tops. Dotted Swiss is one of my favorite cottons. It is a lightweight cloth with small tuffs of dots throughout the fabric, it might require a cotton lining as sometimes it’s slightly sheer, but so pretty. Also, take a look at cotton sateen, it has a beautiful hand with a nice sheen on one side, perfect for skirts as well useful for other types of garments. As you gain confidence, stretch your skills with fabrics like linen, and experience will make these former foes your new best friends.
Think about where your project will fit in your closet. A fabric’s personality can completely change an outfit’s vibe. A sturdy denim fabric will scream casual cool, while silk whispers elegance.
As mentioned above the drape and fit of a fabric should sync nicely with your project ambitions. Some fabrics flow gracefully around the body, like a dance; others hold firm and structured—a decision which shouldn’t be left to chance.
For the cautious or undecided, working on smaller projects could give insight into what direction to take. This approach allows experimentation without the heavy investment, offering lessons along the way.
Ultimately, let your sewing journey guide your fabric choices—every stitch is progress, whether it’s a fabulous evening gown or a trusty pair of everyday pants.